Hopefully first Light with my 26c

[Jkulin]

I bought nearly a year ago a CEM40EC from Altair for my mobile setup and have never used it, so when my AA26c arrived just before Christmas, I thought time to get back into using a wider field of view.

So over Xmas I have completed setting up the new rig with new cables, completely re-installed my laptop and finally I think it is ready to roll.

I need to calibrate my mount, sort my focus points out, take darks for my iPolar and then should be ready.

Its a little bit weird going back to using a tripod and covering my mount up at the end of the session, but it will allow me to capture images on both rigs. The biggest weirdness is only setting for one channel and not multiple channels, also I am told my durations will be vastly reduced!

I had to move the mount back so it could clear the dome, eventually I will switch rigs in the Obsy, but not this year as I am waiting on my new Newt to arrive.

So in ignorance do I just need to do darks and bias, if darks are they just the same as if I was using a CCD and for the same duration to match my exposures? I usually take 30 subs of each exposure for darks and 100 subs for my biases.

I've still got to finishing tidying the cables but need to keep them loose so I can adjust the focus on the OAG

Any thoughts would be welcome, ta

 

[AstronomyUkraine]

Posted by: @Jkulin

So in ignorance do I just need to do darks and bias, if darks are they just the same as if I was using a CCD and for the same duration to match my exposures? I usually take 30 subs of each exposure for darks and 100 subs for my biases.

Darks taken at the same exposure length and temperature as the lights are needed. Which means you can take them anytime you want. There seems to be concensus that bias frames are not really essential with modern CMOS cameras that have a low read noise, and it's better just to use flat frames that have been calibrated with dark flats. Maybe you would need to experiment with your particular camera, try calibrating with and without bias. I use darks and flats to calibrate lights when using my ZWO 1600, but no bias.

Brian

[Jkulin]

@AstronomyUkraine Thanks Brian, yes so it seems to treat just like my CCD.

I've had a few issues this evening, but glad to say that, my backfocus is bang on as in my OAG guiding at around 0.11rms at 550mm.

Focus points has proved to be a major issue, one that I have worked on all night, but first need to check that there is no problem with the focuser.

I haven't used my Esprit 100 for a couple of years, so was really quite pleased to be using it again.

[AstronomyUkraine]

Posted by: @Jkulin

Thanks Brian, yes so it seems to treat just like my CCD.

I've had a few issues this evening, but glad to say that, my backfocus is bang on as in my OAG guiding at around 0.11rms at 550mm.

Focus points has proved to be a major issue, one that I have worked on all night, but first need to check that there is no problem with the focuser.

I haven't used my Esprit 100 for a couple of years, so was really quite pleased to be using it again.

I tried calibrating my lights with bias and flats, they come out awful, so skipped the bias frames, and everything is perfect.

I'm waiting to sort the autofocus out with my Esprit 120. I hope to have my flattener by next week, then I can work out step sizes etc for use with SGP.

Brian

[Jkulin]

Hi Brian,

I got to the bottom of my focusing issue, the grub screw was not holding on the focuser, so have stripped and put it together again and locked it up as much as I dare, if it continues, then will upgrade the focuser to a feathertouch.

I think the other glitches are as a direct result of not using a separate USB3.0 for the camera, so have resolved that issue now.

Just looking forward to some clear skies forecast for tomorrow and Friday.

[AstronomyUkraine]

Posted by: @Jkulin

I got to the bottom of my focusing issue, the grub screw was not holding on the focuser, so have stripped and put it together again and locked it up as much as I dare, if it continues, then will upgrade the focuser to a feathertouch.

I think the other glitches are as a direct result of not using a separate USB3.0 for the camera, so have resolved that issue now.

Just looking forward to some clear skies forecast for tomorrow and Friday.

Hi John

Which grubscrew? The one holding the autofocuser, or the screws holding the focuser to the scope? I run my Esprit 120 last night, got it into focus with my autofocuser, got a good V curve in SGP once it had run a few times, I wasn't helped with bad seeing. My flattener arrived today, so I will go through the whole process again, hopefully tomorrow night. Got a good forecast.

I use a cable directly to my laptop from my ASI 1600. I had problems when I run it through my USB hub, seems ZWO cameras don't perform well when run through a hub.

 

[Jkulin]

Hi Brian, I use Pegasus Focusers and the grub screw that tighten the union to the focus shaft was rotating and stopping me getting a proper V-Curve as the focuser was not locking.

If it continues then will put some thread lock on the shaft.

For my new Newt, I have purchased a UPB V2 which comes with a USB3.1 hub built in, so will use that on there as it can still be fed direct through my 120EC

[AstronomyUkraine]

Posted by: @Jkulin

Hi Brian, I use Pegasus Focusers and the grub screw that tighten the union to the focus shaft was rotating and stopping me getting a proper V-Curve as the focuser was not locking.

If it continues then will put some thread lock on the shaft.

Hi John

I'm surprised they only have one grubscrew to hold the union to the shaft. My ZWO has two screws, and never had a problem. Using Loctite might be a good solution, until you need to remove the focuser for any reason, but it seems the thread is stripped on the union, giving you no other option really.

I only have the PBB. I really need the UPB V2, for the extra power outlets and the extra dew heater connection which would come in really useful.

[Jkulin]

Well I managed first proper light for my 26c, Wow, just wow, what an unbelievable camera, it's like taking Candy from kids.

This is not by any means a finished image as it is just 23 x 240s, I want a load more this evening, it was so easy to image with and the colours are stunning, if I can get another 2-3 hours tonight then would be pleased

I had a couple of issues with my spare Lodestar x2 and so only managed 3 x 240s on M42, so 12 minutes of data!!!!!, gob smacked, no processing at all about from stack the three images, what is it going to be like with a stack more?

I can't wait until the Mono version comes out for the NB side.

I haven't used any filters as haven't found the need.

Will post up some revisions as I grab more data.

[AstronomyUkraine]

Posted by: @Jkulin

Well I managed first proper light for my 26c, Wow, just wow, what an unbelievable camera, it's like taking Candy from kids.

This is not by any means a finished image as it is just 23 x 240s, I want a load more this evening, it was so easy to image with and the colours are stunning, if I can

get another 2-3 hours tonight then would be pleased

Very impressive John. The noise level looks very low indeed. I could imagine 8 or 10 hours of data with something like the L-Extreme filter, would produce some spectacular results.

Brian

[Jkulin]

Thanks Brian, I haven't used any filters with this, what effect does the L-Extreme have on the capture?

[AstronomyUkraine]

Posted by: @Jkulin

Thanks Brian, I haven't used any filters with this, what effect does the L-Extreme have on the capture?

The L-Extreme is basically a 7nm dual NB filter, which cuts down on the light pollution and moonglow. Obviously not to the extent of your Chroma filters, but for a filter costing half the price of a Chroma, you would expect that. Compared to the L-Extreme, the L-Enhance also allows H beta through and also more light pollution, with it's wider bandpass.

[Jkulin]

@AstronomyUkraine Thanks Brian, correct me if I am wrong but you have very little light pollution where you live, so does it not degrade the image?

I was tempted to buy some more Chromas filters for NB and almost certainly will when the Mono version of the camera comes out.

[AstronomyUkraine]

Posted by: @Jkulin

Thanks Brian, correct me if I am wrong but you have very little light pollution where you live, so does it not degrade the image?

I'm on the edge of bortle 3 or 4, my sky quality index is around 20.63, I have light pollution from the East, but overall it's not bad. I rarely get any serious gradients, unless the seeing is bad. I want Chroma filters too, I never have problems with planes or satellites, so the extra exposure time would be worth it.

[Jkulin]

@AstronomyUkraine Oh I wish I had skies like that, it must be truly wonmderful

[AstronomyUkraine]

Posted by: @Jkulin

Oh I wish I had skies like that, it must be truly wonmderful

It was even better until recently. The council used to turn all the street lighting off at 12.30am, shooting broadband was great, but in their wisdom, they decided to keep the lights on all night now.