Carastro Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Tulip Nebula showing the surrounding gas and dust. Single image with Samyang 135mm lens (i.e. not a Mosaic) I added some data taken last year with a smaller lens and tried to add it into the mix, so the right hand side has twice as much Ha data than the left hand side. The little blue reflection nebula doesn't seem to have come out very well, but considering this was with a camera lens, from Bortle 8 and in Astronomical Twilight, I guess it is not surprising. Ha 20 x 600secs on Left and 43 x 600secs on the right. Baader 7.5nm Oiii 16 x 300 binned x 2 Sii 13 x 300 binned x 2 Atik460EX and Atik428EX with Samyang 135mm F2 lens @ f2.8 HEQ5 Total imaging time 9h 35m 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabs Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 36 minutes ago, Carastro said: Tulip Nebula showing the surrounding gas and dust. Single image with Samyang 135mm lens (i.e. not a Mosaic) I added some data taken last year with a smaller lens and tried to add it into the mix, so the right hand side has twice as much Ha data than the left hand side. The little blue reflection nebula doesn't seem to have come out very well, but considering this was with a camera lens, from Bortle 8 and in Astronomical Twilight, I guess it is not surprising. Ha 20 x 600secs on Left and 43 x 600secs on the right. Baader 7.5nm Oiii 16 x 300 binned x 2 Sii 13 x 300 binned x 2 Atik460EX and Atik428EX with Samyang 135mm F2 lens @ f2.8 HEQ5 Total imaging time 9h 35m Beautiful!! Nice colours! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TareqPhoto Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Carole, you are lucky to use 135mm and being happy with it, i always keep trying to only use scopes maybe not high end but something with nice quality and ignoring lenses, i don't have Samyang 135mm but i do have Canon 135mm, i can stop it down to have acceptable results, but i don't know why i don't like to use lenses, but with your results i feel like why shouldn't i do the same with lenses, thank you for sharing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marmot Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Another great image from you. It seems like there’s so many different things to look at in the same shot. I like it🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carastro Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 (edited) Thanks Guys, @TareqPhoto Until I got this wonderful lens I have not got good results at all with camera lenses and also found them difficult to focus because the focus ring would often be right where I wanted to hang the Bahtinov mask, plus wrapping a dew heater around it would often nudge the focus. Prior to Coronavirus, I only had telescopes, but I was wanting to get something with a bigger FOV to get some of the larger objects and didn't fancy doing Mosaics. I looked at the Redcat and thought it was too expensive, and then someone recommended the Samyang 135mm F2 lens (NB I image at F2.8 as recommended to me). It's just like using a telescope, the focuser is on the body of the lens, it has a handy dew shield and I can wrap a dew heater around it too no problem. I still have my scopes, and the Skywatcher Esprit100 a more recent acquisition, and simply use whichever set up suits the size of the area I want to image. My next image will be with the Esprit. Carole Edited June 15, 2021 by Carastro 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TareqPhoto Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 34 minutes ago, Carastro said: Thanks Guys, @TareqPhoto Until I got this wonderful lens I have not got good results at all with camera lenses and also found them difficult to focus because the focus ring would often be right where I wanted to hang the Bahtinov mask, plus wrapping a dew heater around it would often nudge the focus. Prior to Coronavirus, I only had telescopes, but I was wanting to get something with a bigger FOV to get some of the larger objects and didn't fancy doing Mosaics. I looked at the Redcat and thought it was too expensive, and then someone recommended the Samyang 135mm F2 lens (NB I image at F2.8 as recommended to me). It's just like using a telescope, the focuser is on the body of the lens, it has a handy dew shield and I can wrap a dew heater around it too no problem. I still have my scopes, and the Skywatcher Esprit100 a more recent acquisition, and simply use whichever set up suits the size of the area I want to image. My next image will be with the Esprit. Carole Yes, i understand your point, i am trying now to get few more scopes to give me that WIDE field of FOV without me spending a fortune to buy a full frame camera, there are some wide field small scopes, but i question their quality and performance before i jump to any, and with lens it is as you described it about focus, but i saw enough amazing results from lenses mostly this Samyang 135mm to make my mind, and my Canon 300mm 2.8 is a beast, it should be better quality than Canon 135mm or in same level and it should surpass any of Samyang lenses, but it is an old lens so maybe optics has the age affected somehow, and i couldn't find any filter threaded for it as i always keep the hood on it, big one. I might give my Canon 70-200 mk2 a test one day, to see if 135mm from this lens can be as good as the Samyang one or in same quality of Canon 135mm, i tested that Canon 135mm once and it gave a horrible CA really, and i hate to stop it down and produce that ugly spikes different than reflectors, but i got a solution of that already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Holdsworth Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Beautiful image Carole. I really like the subtle colours of this one. Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carastro Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 Thanks Paul (you put your name this time). 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic M Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Beautiful image Carole, you seem to have invented a new colour palette with your recent images - peaches and lilacs!. Do you think it's the lens, or have you a new process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carastro Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 (edited) Neither Padraic, just how it comes out. I think the lilac is a processing artifact which I hadn't noticed and perhaps ought to rectify. Carole Edited June 16, 2021 by Carastro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstronomyUkraine Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 2 hours ago, Carastro said: Neither Padraic, just how it comes out. I think the lilac is a processing artifact which I hadn't noticed and perhaps ought to rectify. All SHO images seem to suffer from a purple background and a green nebula after stacking. The colour mixer in ACR does a great job of removing the purple/magenta from an image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TareqPhoto Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 On 6/16/2021 at 1:47 PM, AstronomyUkraine said: All SHO images seem to suffer from a purple background and a green nebula after stacking. The colour mixer in ACR does a great job of removing the purple/magenta from an image. How? Any tips or step by step to do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstronomyUkraine Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 6 minutes ago, TareqPhoto said: How? Any tips or step by step to do it? Sure. Open your image in photoshop. Open the camera raw filter. Go to the color mixer section, click the saturation tab, then click the targeted Adjustment tool. Make sure the adjust is set to HSL. Hover over the affected area with the adjustment tool, click and drag the tool, you will see which colours are affected by the movement of the sliders in the color mixer panel. You can either use the adjustment tool to remove the saturated color, or use the sliders manually. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carastro Posted June 18, 2021 Author Share Posted June 18, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, AstronomyUkraine said: Open your image in photoshop. Open the camera raw filter. Go to the color mixer section, click the saturation tab, then click the targeted Adjustment tool. Make sure the adjust is set to HSL. Hover over the affected area with the adjustment tool, click and drag the tool, you will see which colours are affected by the movement of the sliders in the color mixer panel. You can either use the adjustment tool to remove the saturated color, or use the sliders manually. I don't have a Camera Raw Filter in my Photoshop CS3, maybe because it is an older version. Carole Edited June 18, 2021 by Carastro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstronomyUkraine Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Carastro said: I don't have a Camera Raw Filter in my Photoshop CS3, maybe because it is an older version. Carole According to information it is on Adobe CS3. The way to open it is click File/Open As, select an image on your drive, then choose Camera Raw in the dropdown box. That should open Camera Raw. On CS3, Camera Raw is not a filter, but a plugin. Double clicking a RAW image should also activate Camera Raw. CS3 will look like the bottom image when ACR is open. Brian Edited June 18, 2021 by AstronomyUkraine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkAR Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 Excellent image Carole. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TareqPhoto Posted June 18, 2021 Share Posted June 18, 2021 19 hours ago, AstronomyUkraine said: Sure. Open your image in photoshop. Open the camera raw filter. Go to the color mixer section, click the saturation tab, then click the targeted Adjustment tool. Make sure the adjust is set to HSL. Hover over the affected area with the adjustment tool, click and drag the tool, you will see which colours are affected by the movement of the sliders in the color mixer panel. You can either use the adjustment tool to remove the saturated color, or use the sliders manually. Perfect, thank you very much 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gina Posted June 19, 2021 Share Posted June 19, 2021 Lovely image. 👍👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.