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Tulip Nebula Sh2-101 (widefield)


Carastro

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Tulip Nebula showing the surrounding gas and dust. Single image with Samyang 135mm lens (i.e. not a Mosaic)
I added some data taken last year with a smaller lens and tried to add it into the mix, so the right hand side has twice as much Ha data than the left hand side.  The little blue reflection nebula doesn't seem to have come out very well, but considering this was with a camera lens, from Bortle 8 and in Astronomical Twilight, I guess it is not surprising.

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Ha 20 x 600secs on Left and 43 x 600secs on the right. Baader 7.5nm
Oiii 16 x 300 binned x 2
Sii 13 x 300 binned x 2
Atik460EX and Atik428EX with Samyang 135mm F2 lens @ f2.8
HEQ5
Total imaging time 9h 35m

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36 minutes ago, Carastro said:

Tulip Nebula showing the surrounding gas and dust. Single image with Samyang 135mm lens (i.e. not a Mosaic)
I added some data taken last year with a smaller lens and tried to add it into the mix, so the right hand side has twice as much Ha data than the left hand side.  The little blue reflection nebula doesn't seem to have come out very well, but considering this was with a camera lens, from Bortle 8 and in Astronomical Twilight, I guess it is not surprising.

spacer.png

Ha 20 x 600secs on Left and 43 x 600secs on the right. Baader 7.5nm
Oiii 16 x 300 binned x 2
Sii 13 x 300 binned x 2
Atik460EX and Atik428EX with Samyang 135mm F2 lens @ f2.8
HEQ5
Total imaging time 9h 35m

Beautiful!! Nice colours!

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Carole, you are lucky to use 135mm and being happy with it, i always keep trying to only use scopes maybe not high end but something with nice quality and ignoring lenses, i don't have Samyang 135mm but i do have Canon 135mm, i can stop it down to have acceptable results, but i don't know why i don't like to use lenses, but with your results i feel like why shouldn't i do the same with lenses, thank you for sharing.

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Thanks Guys,

 

@TareqPhoto  Until I got this wonderful lens I have not got good results at all with camera lenses and also found them difficult to focus because  the focus ring would often be right where I wanted to hang the Bahtinov mask, plus wrapping a dew heater around it would often nudge the focus.  Prior to Coronavirus, I only had telescopes, but I was wanting to get something with a bigger FOV to get some of the larger objects and didn't fancy doing Mosaics.  I looked at the Redcat and thought it was too expensive, and then someone recommended the Samyang 135mm F2 lens (NB I image at F2.8 as recommended to me).

 

It's just like using a telescope, the focuser is on the body of the lens, it has a handy dew shield and I can wrap a dew heater around it too no problem.

 

I still have my scopes, and the Skywatcher Esprit100 a more recent acquisition, and simply use whichever set up suits the size of the area I want to image.  My next image will be with the Esprit. 

 

Carole  

 

 

Edited by Carastro
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34 minutes ago, Carastro said:

Thanks Guys,

 

@TareqPhoto  Until I got this wonderful lens I have not got good results at all with camera lenses and also found them difficult to focus because  the focus ring would often be right where I wanted to hang the Bahtinov mask, plus wrapping a dew heater around it would often nudge the focus.  Prior to Coronavirus, I only had telescopes, but I was wanting to get something with a bigger FOV to get some of the larger objects and didn't fancy doing Mosaics.  I looked at the Redcat and thought it was too expensive, and then someone recommended the Samyang 135mm F2 lens (NB I image at F2.8 as recommended to me).

 

It's just like using a telescope, the focuser is on the body of the lens, it has a handy dew shield and I can wrap a dew heater around it too no problem.

 

I still have my scopes, and the Skywatcher Esprit100 a more recent acquisition, and simply use whichever set up suits the size of the area I want to image.  My next image will be with the Esprit. 

 

Carole  

 

 

 

Yes, i understand your point, i am trying now to get few more scopes to give me that WIDE field of FOV without me spending a fortune to buy a full frame camera, there are some wide field small scopes, but i question their quality and performance before i jump to any, and with lens it is as you described it about focus, but i saw enough amazing results from lenses mostly this Samyang 135mm to make my mind, and my Canon 300mm 2.8 is a beast, it should be better quality than Canon 135mm or in same level and it should surpass any of Samyang lenses, but it is an old lens so maybe optics has the age affected somehow, and i couldn't find any filter threaded for it as i always keep the hood on it, big one.

 

I might give my Canon 70-200 mk2 a test one day, to see if 135mm from this lens can be as good as the Samyang one or in same quality of Canon 135mm, i tested that Canon 135mm once and it gave a horrible CA really, and i hate to stop it down and produce that ugly spikes different than reflectors, but i got a solution of that already.

 

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2 hours ago, Carastro said:

Neither Padraic, just how it comes out.  I think the lilac is a processing artifact which I hadn't noticed and perhaps ought to rectify. 

All SHO images seem to suffer from a purple background and a green nebula after stacking. The colour mixer in ACR does a great job of removing the purple/magenta from an image.

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On 6/16/2021 at 1:47 PM, AstronomyUkraine said:

All SHO images seem to suffer from a purple background and a green nebula after stacking. The colour mixer in ACR does a great job of removing the purple/magenta from an image.

 

How? Any tips or step by step to do it?

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6 minutes ago, TareqPhoto said:

 

How? Any tips or step by step to do it?

Sure. Open your image in photoshop. Open the camera raw filter. Go to the color mixer section, click the saturation tab, then click the targeted Adjustment tool. Make sure the adjust is set to HSL. Hover over the affected area with the adjustment tool, click and drag  the tool, you will see which colours are affected by the movement of the sliders in the color mixer panel. You can either use the adjustment tool to remove the saturated color, or use the sliders manually.

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10 hours ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

 Open your image in photoshop. Open the camera raw filter. Go to the color mixer section, click the saturation tab, then click the targeted Adjustment tool. Make sure the adjust is set to HSL. Hover over the affected area with the adjustment tool, click and drag  the tool, you will see which colours are affected by the movement of the sliders in the color mixer panel. You can either use the adjustment tool to remove the saturated color, or use the sliders manually.

I don't have a Camera Raw Filter in my Photoshop CS3, maybe because it is an older version.

 

image.thumb.png.6ccc1f0cc1f19d46e5c70a05c9da3a81.png

 

Carole 

Edited by Carastro
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1 hour ago, Carastro said:

I don't have a Camera Raw Filter in my Photoshop CS3, maybe because it is an older version.

 

image.thumb.png.6ccc1f0cc1f19d46e5c70a05c9da3a81.png

 

Carole 

According to information it is on Adobe CS3. The way to open it is click File/Open As, select an image on your drive, then choose Camera Raw in the dropdown box. That should open Camera Raw. On CS3, Camera Raw is not a filter, but a plugin. Double clicking a RAW image should also activate Camera Raw. CS3 will look like the bottom image when ACR is open.

 

Brian

 

1015239752_CameraRaw.thumb.jpg.e8df3876a217647f748118d47532b63e.jpg

 

CS3.thumb.jpg.63f451f2894cb5498debff5eb656b61a.jpg

Edited by AstronomyUkraine
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19 hours ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

Sure. Open your image in photoshop. Open the camera raw filter. Go to the color mixer section, click the saturation tab, then click the targeted Adjustment tool. Make sure the adjust is set to HSL. Hover over the affected area with the adjustment tool, click and drag  the tool, you will see which colours are affected by the movement of the sliders in the color mixer panel. You can either use the adjustment tool to remove the saturated color, or use the sliders manually.

 

Perfect, thank you very much 👍

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