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I am brand new to this type of photography (and I'm on a serious budget). I have yet to make my first attempt at Astro-Photography but have been reading a lot and am confused about what type of filter to use on my Nikon. There are so many different types of filters on the market I'm wondering where to start. I will be shooting from a bortle 3 environment. Any suggestions would be a great help. Please remember I'm brand new to this and am on a budget so multi=hundred dollar filters are a bit out of reach for me.

Thanks for your input.

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So you will be on a fixed tripod initially. A rather costly equatorial mount can be thought about later maybe but great images can be achieved from a fixed tripod with the right settings in the meantime.

 

Here is an image of Cygnus I did a long time ago with a fixed tripod using an exposure rule that limits star trailing to an acceptable level.

 

cygnus.jpg

Edited by Galileo
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Probably best to get stellarium for phone or pc (free software) and have a look to plan an image.

Use the 500 rule to work out maximum shutter speed ( 500 ÷ focal length ) so roughly 20 seconds at 24 mm.

Google your camera to find the best iso to use and shoot raw in manual focus/manual F and shutter speed.

Take plenty of time getting focus spot on then take as many shots as you can 

Use deep sky stacker to 'stack' the images then Photoshop or similar to tease the image out (it will look very dark probably but it's in there ! )

Google astro imaging stretching.

Probably a good idea to use a timer cable release.

Keep us posted.

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  • 4 weeks later...

 

Hi guys. Here's an update, I am still acquiring gear to start off with and will hopefully have everything I need to get started very soon but I have question. When shooting "Dark frames" is it better to shoot a dark frame after every exposure so that the temp, humidity etc. is the same as the previous exposure or shooed I should all  my dark frames after I'm done shooting whatever I'm trying to capture?

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No. Choose a time to shoot your darks when it is cloudy. You only need to take them every six months or so. That way you can concentrate on getting actual precious data when it is clear.

I see you have a DSLR. It may be best for you to upgrade, finances permitting, to a cooled, dedicated astronomy camera. That way you determine the temperature of the sensor not the local weather.

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