IC 405 Partial Image in Auriga

[gabs]

Hi all,

 

I managed last night to get a view of the Flaming Nebula in Auriga constellation.

 

I took 100 exposure at 13 sec each , ISO800, same number for the bias , flat and dark frames.

 

The result can be improved massively ( perhaps with a different  scope ...)  but I am aware is not an easy target for a beginner. I like the nebulosity colour as well as it's shape.

 

I still need to improve a lot with the stars in the background.

 

I hope you would like it. Please feel free to comment and obviously criticize.

 

thanks.

 

gabs

 

[TerryMcK]

Are you using a focusing mask like a Bahtinov mask Gabs? The stars do look a little out of focus.

[gabs]

24 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

Are you using a focusing mask like a Bahtinov mask Gabs? The stars do look a little out of focus.

Yes I used the mask this time with LP already in the camera. I don’t know why but on the live view on the camera they look fine then after stacked and processed the image that is the max result I could get.

maybe I need to try again...

Edited April 20, 2021 by gabs

[TerryMcK]

Can you upload a sample sub or two so we can have a look at the raw files? Not sure how big the files from the 1200D are but they can be deleted later to save space on the forum

[gabs]

4 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

Can you upload a sample sub or two so we can have a look at the raw files? Not sure how big the files from the 1200D are but they can be deleted later to save space on the forum

Thank you so much Terry they are too big to be send here, but I created the link  below with wetransfer where you can download an example of 4 subs ( dark, bias, flats ).

 

https://we.tl/t-3WogMLHD62

 

Let me know what you think.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

gabs

 

[AstronomyUkraine]

How are you taking the shots? Are you using a cable release, or an intervalometer? Also lock up your mirror if possible. The mirror will cause vibrations as the image is exposed. Another thing I noticed, you have no spreader on your tripod, and the tripod legs are extended quite a distance. To get more stability, lower the legs as much as possible, and use a spreader if you have one.

[AstronomyUkraine]

1 hour ago, gabs said:

Thank you so much Terry they are too big to be send here, but I created the link  below with wetransfer where you can download an example of 4 subs ( dark, bias, flats ).

First thing I noticed, your bias and darks look to be exactly the same. Are you using the fastest shutter speed for your bias?

[gabs]

7 minutes ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

How are you taking the shots? Are you using a cable release, or an intervalometer? Also lock up your mirror if possible. The mirror will cause vibrations as the image is exposed. Another thing I noticed, you have no spreader on your tripod, and the tripod legs are extended quite a distance. To get more stability, lower the legs as much as possible, and use a spreader if you have one.

Thank you! To take the light frames I am using the intervalometer in the camera ( the magic lantern one) but I can try with the external one.

I will lock up mirror In the camera next time. I think I did before 🤦 unfortunately I don’t have a spreader but I can try to get it!

 

1 minute ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

First thing I noticed, your bias and darks look to be exactly the same. Are you using the fastest shutter speed for your bias?

 Yes fastest for the bias but the dark should be essentially like the light but with the cap on the scope so it can see the dark? Whatever I did wrong I need another trip to the local park soon ! 
 

thank you

[AstronomyUkraine]

4 minutes ago, gabs said:

Yes fastest for the bias but the dark should be essentially like the light but with the cap on the scope so it can see the dark? Whatever I did wrong I need another trip to the local park soon ! 

Ideally with a DSLR you would take the darks at the same time as the lights, so the camera temperature is the same. If that isn't possible, put your camera in a plastic bag and place it in the fridge for an hour, before taking your darks. Are you using Deep Sky Stacker to calibrate images, or some other software?

[gabs]

1 minute ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

Ideally with a DSLR you would take the darks at the same time as the lights, so the camera temperature is the same. If that isn't possible, put your camera in a plastic bag and place it in the fridge for an hour, before taking your darks. Are you using Deep Sky Stacker to calibrate images, or some other software?

Yes I’m using deep sky stacker and yes I took the dark frames after taking the lights frames. The only thing I didn’t do the same night are the flat frames but I can try again next time! 
 

I guess I need a couple of tentatives for each target before I get a decent image.. that is what happened with Orion.

One day I will be able to do all correct in one night! 😛

 

gabs

[AstronomyUkraine]

3 minutes ago, gabs said:

Yes I’m using deep sky stacker and yes I took the dark frames after taking the lights frames. The only thing I didn’t do the same night are the flat frames but I can try again next time! 
 

I guess I need a couple of tentatives for each target before I get a decent image.. that is what happened with Orion.

One day I will be able to do all correct in one night! 😛

 

gabs

Flats and bias can be taken at any time, they are not temperature dependent. You can use the same master bias and master flat frames many times over, as long as you don't change the setup. Once you have your focusing correct, you never need to touch it again.

[gabs]

1 minute ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

Flats and bias can be taken at any time, they are not temperature dependent. You can use the same master bias and master flat frames many times over, as long as you don't change the setup. Once you have your focusing correct, you never need to touch it again.

That would be great! I think the flats I used last time were good so hopefully I don’t need to bin them and I can reuse them!

 

thank you so much !

[AstronomyUkraine]

1 minute ago, gabs said:

That would be great! I think the flats I used last time were good so hopefully I don’t need to bin them and I can reuse them!

 

thank you so much !

I checked your flats in Pixinsight, they are very good, they show up the dust motes quite well. Also when taking darks and bias, you don't need to put your filter on. You only need the filter for flat frames.

[gabs]

1 minute ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

I checked your flats in Pixinsight, they are very good, they show up the dust motes quite well. Also when taking darks and bias, you don't need to put your filter on. You only need the filter for flat frames.

Oh poop seriously no clip filter for dark and bias ... ! 😮I didn’t know that I thought the setting should be exactly the same ! Well lesson learn I know something more now.

 

thank you so much indeed! 
Great advise !

 

[gabs]

1 hour ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

How are you taking the shots? Are you using a cable release, or an intervalometer? Also lock up your mirror if possible. The mirror will cause vibrations as the image is exposed. Another thing I noticed, you have no spreader on your tripod, and the tripod legs are extended quite a distance. To get more stability, lower the legs as much as possible, and use a spreader if you have one.

I researched and It seems canon 1200 d as well as 1100d doesn’t have a mirror luck up however people suggest to use the external intervalometer to avoid the camera shacking .. I need to try ! I will keep you posted 

[AstronomyUkraine]

4 minutes ago, gabs said:

I researched and It seems canon 1200 d as well as 1100d doesn’t have a mirror luck up however people suggest to use the external intervalometer to avoid the camera shacking .. I need to try ! I will keep you posted 

Your camera does have mirror lock on it, but the camera has to be in manual mode for it to appear in the menu. Another thing to remember. Turn off long exposure noise reduction in the camera, and high iso noise reduction.

[gabs]

21 minutes ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

Your camera does have mirror lock on it, but the camera has to be in manual mode for it to appear in the menu. Another thing to remember. Turn off long exposure noise reduction in the camera, and high iso noise reduction.

I will definitely do it... still learning 😛

[TerryMcK]

3 hours ago, gabs said:

Thank you so much Terry they are too big to be send here, but I created the link  below with wetransfer where you can download an example of 4 subs ( dark, bias, flats ).

 

https://we.tl/t-3WogMLHD62

 

Let me know what you think.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

gabs

 

OK I have downloaded them and will have a look tomorrow morning

[gabs]

2 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

OK I have downloaded them and will have a look tomorrow morning

Thank you ! No rush at all! 

[TerryMcK]

Please send the lights too Gabs.

[gabs]

39 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:

Please send the lights too Gabs.

Good morning ,

Ok I will do it thanks Terry!

 

[gabs]

29 minutes ago, gabs said:

Good morning ,

Ok I will do it thanks Terry!

 

here there is the link :

 

https://we.tl/t-PV2fbZIWra

 

I re opened them just now and they look ok, however I am beginning to think that I did something wrong on PIPP.

 

Maybe the star mask and its threshold was wrong .. I will try to process them again.

 

Please let me know your thoughts and thanks in advance.

 

gabs

[TerryMcK]

Thanks Gabs. I've downloaded them and had a look. They are out of focus unfortunately. Maybe the focuser slipped due to the weight of the camera so lock the focuser a little more. Also there seems to be some drift on the stars maybe polar alignment issues. 

The other thing that might be relevant is backfocus which I think is 55mm on a Canon DSLR. If you have that correct then it is just the focuser.

 

Do you have a field flattener on the scope yet? The stars in each corner have characteristic trails too but not to worry if you haven't yet as they can be an expensive addition. Lots of minor issues and we have all had them. But we are here and happy to help 🙂. You will be turning out fantastic images in a short while.

[Padraic M]

On 4/19/2021 at 11:37 PM, gabs said:

The result can be improved massively ( perhaps with a different  scope ...)

Unfortunately for us all, the result can ALWAYS be improved massively with a different scope, mount, camera, focuser, filters, cables, software, location, filter wheel, guide scope, guide cam, adaptive optics, low-earth orbit, etc. etc. etc. and it never seems to stop! 🙂

The secret is to a) find out the best you can do with whatever equipment you currently have and b) is there one change/purchase that you can make, that would give you a good value-for-money improvement?

At the early days, you will find that almost every aspect of your setup needs to be improved a little to give what you might consider to be acceptable results. 

First things first though - you managed to capture the target. No mean feat; and there's no point in having a perfect technical image if the target isn't in it! You can see the Auriga Ladder (marked in Red below) and the U-shaped asterism around AE-Aurigae, the star that gives the nebula its colour. I ran those lights and calibration frames through APP to see what could be seen. This is from 65 seconds of exposure.

 

 

The rough outline of the nebula is shown in green on the right (reminds me a bit of Africa, or Barney the Dinosaur :-) ). You've also managed to capture some of IC410 the Tadpoles on the left. This is a great part of the sky with so much to see. This is also why it's a little hard to process, as there's very little natural sky that doesn't have any nebulosity in it, that could be used as a reference background colour. 

 

Focus could definitely be improved, but I've always found it difficult to focus a DSLR. An electronic focuser is a game changer, but acceptable results can be achieved manually with great patience.

 

You've also got a strong diagonal gradient (brightness in top-right of your image) that doesn't look like nebulosity to me - probably light pollution, that could be removed in PS or Gimp; and some vignetting (dark/black corners). Flats are supposed to remove this so might be worth retrying the DSS stacking process or your flat captures. Your flats look ok but don't seem to be compensating enough.

 

I'd love to see what could be done with the full 20 minutes of lights. Remind me again of the lens/scope you're using?

 

 

[gabs]

1 hour ago, TerryMcK said:

Thanks Gabs. I've downloaded them and had a look. They are out of focus unfortunately. Maybe the focuser slipped due to the weight of the camera so lock the focuser a little more. Also there seems to be some drift on the stars maybe polar alignment issues. 

The other thing that might be relevant is backfocus which I think is 55mm on a Canon DSLR. If you have that correct then it is just the focuser.

 

Do you have a field flattener on the scope yet? The stars in each corner have characteristic trails too but not to worry if you haven't yet as they can be an expensive addition. Lots of minor issues and we have all had them. But we are here and happy to help 🙂. You will be turning out fantastic images in a short while.

thanks Terry it's great to have a support in this journey. the problem i noticed is that on my scope I can't really lock the focus.

I don't have a field flattern but not so sure is convenience for me to purchase or rather gat a different scope ..maybe with a spreader mount and a focuse locker. that i guess will imporve a lot my image.

If you can suggest somthing that would be great! thank you so much again