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Canon EOS Noise reduction


Damo127

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Hi all, 

 

Hoping someone with experience can help me out with a question. 

I've a Canon 700d and am just starting out with astrophotography (in fact i've never owned a dslr before so starting from total beginning). I want to get the settings sorted for deep sky objects - have done lots of internet research and here's my current understanding. 

 

Camera attached to Skymax 127 Mak via T ring

 

ISO Probably 6400

F4

Focus infinity

Shutter speed bulb

Intervalometer will control shots 20 second exposure for 150 odd shots. I'll then take darks, flats, bias - i know thats not the ideal amount for a DSO but given i'm just getting started i want to find out what works - i don't know how well my tracking will hold up yet but suspect it won't be great. 

 

My question relates to some noise reduction settings in the camera. There's a setting for long exposure noise reduction + another setting for High ISO noise reduction (which can be set to low, standard, high). One video i've watched suggested turning the long exposure noise reduction off but leaving the high ISO setting on. I'm ok with this but don't know if doing this means i have to allow for a large interval between each shot in case the camera is taking more then one image to cancel out the noise. I was going to set the intervalometer at 20 sec exposures separated by 10 second intervals - will this work with High ISO turned on? or should i just turn off all noise reduction and deal with that in post processing? I'm assuming these settings related to all Canon DSLR's and maybe even exist on other makes too so this question might relate to many people.

 

Any guidance would be great

 

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I've just discovered that its only the Long expose noise reduction that takes a second image for subtraction so having this turned off should mean my 10 second intervals are ok. I might even drop to 5 seconds to speed up my shooting which will be advantageous in reducing image rotation. 

I'm still not sure what to set the High ISO reduction to though - i might have to play with each to see what they do 🙂

 

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Turn noise reduction off in the camera, it will make each image last twice as long.  Better to take separate darks when the clouds roll in making sure darks are the same (ish) temperature as the lights.

 

Also I would not use 6400 ISO.  I know DSLR cameras have moved on a bit since I owned one, but I was always told the higher the ISO the noisier the image and I always used 800ISO.   

 

You are using a Skymax 127 Mak which is F12 which is not ideal for imaging as it is slower to capture the Photos.  Just letting you know for the future and I know you are just cutting your teeth at the moment.  So the shorter images you are suggesting are likely not to have much in them.  

 

You don't say what mount you are using, I suspect it's an Alt/Az mount as you are talking about rotation.

 

You won't need focus to infinity if attaching to the telescope, focus with the telescope itself, and if you have one or can make one (cheap to buy anyway) a Bahtinov mask is easy to achieve focus.

 

Finally I would recommend using a laptop with a USB cable to do your capturing rather than the intervalometer.  The latter is difficult to read in the dark.  Capturing to the laptop also means it is easier to focus.

Of course you would need capture software.  I don;t use the DSLR much these days but when I do i find Canon Utility software which comes with the camera normally perfectly ample - certainly at the beginner stage. 

 

Finally to say, I presume the telescope comes with a 1.25" focusser, which means much of your DSLR sensor will be wasted.  

 

Still, early beginnings, use what you have and see how you get on.  If you decide you like imaging you can always change your gear at a later date.  

 

HTHs.

 

Carole 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Carastro
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3 hours ago, Damo127 said:

Hi all, 

 

Hoping someone with experience can help me out with a question. 

I've a Canon 700d and am just starting out with astrophotography (in fact i've never owned a dslr before so starting from total beginning). I want to get the settings sorted for deep sky objects - have done lots of internet research and here's my current understanding. 

 

Camera attached to Skymax 127 Mak via T ring

 

ISO Probably 6400

F4

Focus infinity

Shutter speed bulb

Intervalometer will control shots 20 second exposure for 150 odd shots. I'll then take darks, flats, bias - i know thats not the ideal amount for a DSO but given i'm just getting started i want to find out what works - i don't know how well my tracking will hold up yet but suspect it won't be great. 

 

My question relates to some noise reduction settings in the camera. There's a setting for long exposure noise reduction + another setting for High ISO noise reduction (which can be set to low, standard, high). One video i've watched suggested turning the long exposure noise reduction off but leaving the high ISO setting on. I'm ok with this but don't know if doing this means i have to allow for a large interval between each shot in case the camera is taking more then one image to cancel out the noise. I was going to set the intervalometer at 20 sec exposures separated by 10 second intervals - will this work with High ISO turned on? or should i just turn off all noise reduction and deal with that in post processing? I'm assuming these settings related to all Canon DSLR's and maybe even exist on other makes too so this question might relate to many people.

 

Any guidance would be great

 

I will echo what @Carastro says about noise reduction, turn it all off. Not only is it not needed, it will drain your batteries quicker. Your iso is way too high for that camera, you will have a lot of problems with noise. The ideal iso for the 700D is 800, at a push 1600. As you can see from the image below, the dynamic range falls off sharply at 800 iso.

 

Brian

 

Best-ISO-for-Canon-700D.png.beb59bc1217270e496044dcd39710b91.png

 

 

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Thanks everyone, 

 

Yes it's an Alt Azimuth mount goto. I'd bought it 10 years ago as a complete novice an i was attracted to it's high focal length (Compact) believing that i'd see greater detail. For deep space i defo need to change the scope and also the mount but i've just blown a load on getting a camera so i'll be really happy if i can capture any sort of DSO. If notion else i'll learn plenty.

I'll turn the ISO down as advised also and switch off all noise reduction. If i get long enough i can always try some different batches with different settings too. 

 

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50 minutes ago, Damo127 said:

Thanks everyone, 

 

Yes it's an Alt Azimuth mount goto. I'd bought it 10 years ago as a complete novice an i was attracted to it's high focal length (Compact) believing that i'd see greater detail. For deep space i defo need to change the scope and also the mount but i've just blown a load on getting a camera so i'll be really happy if i can capture any sort of DSO. If notion else i'll learn plenty.

I'll turn the ISO down as advised also and switch off all noise reduction. If i get long enough i can always try some different batches with different settings too. 

 

If you are guiding, you could easily extend the exposure time to 2 minutes. I doubt you will pick much up with 20 second exposures, unless you have a really dark sky.

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Yes guiding is essential for long exposures, but not sure whether the mount you have is capable of guiding.  

 

I suggest you go for the brightest stuff with the kit you have to get the feel of imaging.  Butterfly Nebula, North America Nebula, Dumbbell Nebula, Elephant's Trunk might be OK, Heart and Soul might be too small with your focal length, But you might get the middle of them.  Then later in the year, M45, and later still in the year the Orion nebula and Rosette Nebula.  These are all bright nebulae that might stand shorter exposures, plus the Globular clusters.

 

If I have forgotten any I am sure others will chip in. 

 

Carole 

 

 

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On 6/13/2021 at 8:57 AM, Carastro said:

Yes guiding is essential for long exposures, but not sure whether the mount you have is capable of guiding.  

 

I suggest you go for the brightest stuff with the kit you have to get the feel of imaging.  Butterfly Nebula, North America Nebula, Dumbbell Nebula, Elephant's Trunk might be OK, Heart and Soul might be too small with your focal length, But you might get the middle of them.  Then later in the year, M45, and later still in the year the Orion nebula and Rosette Nebula.  These are all bright nebulae that might stand shorter exposures, plus the Globular clusters.

 

If I have forgotten any I am sure others will chip in. 

 

Carole 

 

 

You're correct - using Alt Az i'm nervous that anything over 20 seconds and i'm going to get star trails from rotation. I think upgrading my mount is the next most sensible investment for me so i can increase exposure but for now it'll have to do. I'm still confident there's a lot to learn from the set up i have.

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Where has this topic disappeared to, all the posts are missing?  

 

All I am getting is a notice above saying:  where do I find that? 

 

Canon EOS Noise reduction


By Damo127,
_date_last_year_long_full in Cameras

[[Template forums/front/topics/postContainer is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
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3 hours ago, Carastro said:

Where has this topic disappeared to, all the posts are missing?  

 

All I am getting is a notice above saying:  where do I find that? 

 

Canon EOS Noise reduction


By Damo127,
_date_last_year_long_full in Cameras

[[Template forums/front/topics/postContainer is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

Everything is fine now. Maybe there was a glitch in the website software.

 

Brian

Edited by AstronomyUkraine
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2 hours ago, AstronomyUkraine said:

Everything is fine now. Maybe there was a glitch in the website software.

 

Brian

Yes a few hours ago I got a message saying the site was being updated. For some reason I still can’t login on the laptop but can on my phone? 

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32 minutes ago, Damo127 said:

Yes a few hours ago I got a message saying the site was being updated. For some reason I still can’t login on the laptop but can on my phone? 

I have no problem logging in on Windows. Try deleting you browser cache.

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