It has been a while but I need not admit defeat. Ideas on how to work around LED lighting from a neighbours illluminations!

[Cumbrianwolf]

I have been on and off with astronomy / astrophotography since the 2000s and treated myself to a brand-new setup then low and behold the neighbour who does not speak all that much has built a roof over his drive and installs a lot of PIR LED lights which some are on constantly and some come on when activated by the cat or dogs in fact I do not think he has set them correctly as in sensitivity and light levels. After this, I packed my gear back into the boxes and gave up. Now I am wondering if I can find suggestions or workarounds to still allow me some imaging, I understand I may suffer somewhat with the cast from the lights, but surely they will not ruin all exposures?

 

All ideas and suggestions welcomed.

[Carastro]

Narrowband imaging will often deal with this.  I recall some years ago imaging M16 from Kelling Heath which is very low there, and some moron drove into the field with his headlights full on driving round and round trying to find his pitch, and at times the headlights were shining right down my telescope.  As you can imagine we gave him a right mouthful when he finally pitched opposite me. 

 

I was really surprised the next day when I looked at the subs and they were unaffected.    

[TerryMcK]

Yeah narrowband imaging doesn't really care so much with local light pollution - I mainly do mono narrowband imaging with 3nm filters. O3 is sensitive to brighter moonlight but I always try to shoot in the opposite direction when the moon is up anyway. All my neighbours have insecurity lights, the council have installed an LED street light that beams onto my property but none of them have any effect on imaging. Also any gradients can be removed in post processing with the modern software designed for such purposes. GraXPert https://www.graxpert.com/ is free and can be used with any post processing software such as PhotoShop, PixInsight, Siril, Affinity Photo, GIMP to name but a few.

 

I have also been doing some RGB imaging no more than 30 second subs (but many of them) and that works ok too. I live in a Bortle 7 (getting on for 😎 area but some nights you can read a newspaper it's that bright. If the clouds are not in view narrowband imaging carries on.

My OSC camera, that I rarely use these days (er nights!), combined with an IDAS D2 filter also works well for full spectrum work as it blocks out most light pollution wavelengths including LED street lights. I think IDAS have a nwer version of that filter out.

 

The newer dual band filters for OSC cameras are great at narrowband. Altair do Ha/O3 and O3/S2 4nm dual banders which work extremely well with OSC cameras https://www.altairastro.com/altair-ha-sii-oiii--dualband-ultra-4nm--filter-2-combo-13154-p.asp. Expensive but astrophotography isn't cheap.

 

BTW you don't need filters on guidescopes as PHD2 and the like can cope.

[TerryMcK]

1 hour ago, Carastro said:

Kelling Heath

At star parties a lot of people like looking with their eyes and when disturbed by local white lights they get collectively angry - quite rightly as it does take around 30 minutes to re-acquire night eyes again. However imaging doesn't care so much especially if the scope has light shields around the aperture.

[Nightspore]

You have my sympathy.

 

 

I ended up surrounding my entire observing area (N,S,E & W) with 2 metre fences, at some considerable cost. It was worth every penny!

[Cumbrianwolf]

4 hours ago, Nightspore said:

You have my sympathy.

 

 

I ended up surrounding my entire observing area (N,S,E & W) with 2 metre fences, at some considerable cost. It was worth every penny!

I was looking for some form of sheets that I could place up temporarily to prevent the PIR light sensors detecting me or my scope's movement and to reduce external light coming through the gaps when activated. We have a type of fence where there are small gaps in-between each of the fence panels. I was thinking at one point to buy a tent / dome that is collapsable in order to shield the scope away from the LED lighting as well as the dew shield should help somewhat.

[Cumbrianwolf]

7 hours ago, TerryMcK said:

 

I am in a Bortle 4-5 area, or I was until Blackpool turned up next door, I am not sure that the budget could allow a filter that expensive as I need a camera firstly as I tried the DSLR route and think I need to move onto a dedicated astro cam.  (Formatting went a bit crazy on this post)

Edited March 12 by Cumbrianwolf

[Nightspore]

2 hours ago, Cumbrianwolf said:

I was looking for some form of sheets that I could place up temporarily to prevent the PIR light sensors detecting me or my scope's movement and to reduce external light coming through the gaps when activated. We have a type of fence where there are small gaps in-between each of the fence panels. I was thinking at one point to buy a tent / dome that is collapsable in order to shield the scope away from the LED lighting as well as the dew shield should help somewhat.

 

How about a tent?

[GazAstro]

Have you tried chatting to him about it, let him have a look through your scope maybe ?

[Cumbrianwolf]

13 hours ago, GazAstro said:

Have you tried chatting to him about it, let him have a look through your scope maybe ?

This neighbour is not for talking that is for sure, nothing personal to us, but I think the previous tenants made life hell for him and his daughter so they keep to themselves, I have tried to get a conversation going to no avail. I think I need to obtain myself a micro PC and dedicated astrophotography camera and have a few sessions of imaging just to see how much the lights interfere with my shots. I am sounding so defeatist at the moment, which is not my aim.

[Demon]

I have a two foot wide rollmat on the end of my newt which really helps shield out unwanted light. My friend is doing really well with his 190mn on eq6rpro even after changing focuser and that nightmare... He also has a smaller light shield. Ps I like cheap dell 9020m off eBay with 6x usb3 ports and runs my rig great - Last one cost £40. 

[Cumbrianwolf]

3 hours ago, Demon said:

I have a two-foot wide rollmat on the end of my newt which really helps shield out unwanted light. My friend is doing really well with his 190mn on eq6rpro even after changing focuser and that nightmare... He also has a smaller light shield. Ps I like cheap dell 9020m off eBay with 6x usb3 ports and runs my rig great - Last one cost £40. 

Thank you for the input and that PC sounds right up my street as it is practical and affordable. I have a dew shield that will help somewhat, but the roll mat idea is a good one. In regard to your friends scope is that the same that I have in the Explorer 190 MN, reason I ask is the mentioning of the focuser change as in do I need to be aware of faults with the default focuser?

[Carastro]

4 hours ago, Demon said:

I have a two foot wide rollmat on the end of my newt which really helps shield out unwanted light. My friend is doing really well with his 190mn on eq6rpro even after changing focuser and that nightmare... He also has a smaller light shield. Ps I like cheap dell 9020m off eBay with 6x usb3 ports and runs my rig great - Last one cost £40. 

sorry to hijack thread but have you got a link to the dell computer.  

Edited March 15 by Carastro

[Demon]

Yep it's the same skywatcher maksutov newtonian 190mn. Its heavy but its a fully corrected astrograph and he is loving it. Yep focuser sadly looks fantastic but is junk. I didn't believe until he replaced it and I borrowed it to try on my newt. It can work ok if not much weight and extender not used but don't even think of putting a filter wheel on it, sorry. However don't remove it until!!!! As collimation of the 190mn is extreme and many have given up and binned there's - we managed it and it's working better than ever. Even my cheap simple old gso focused is better. Happy to talk more on that and let you know what you need. Carole just type dell 9020m into eBay but make sure it has charger and windows. There are also some other nice version but 9020m has 6xusb3.

 

[Demon]

Yep it's the same skywatcher maksutov newtonian 190mn. Its heavy but its a fully corrected astrograph and he is loving it. Yep focuser sadly looks fantastic but is junk. I didn't believe until he replaced it and I borrowed it to try on my newt. It can work ok if not much weight and extender not used but don't even think of putting a filter wheel on it, sorry. However don't remove it until!!!! As collimation of the 190mn is extreme and many have given up and binned there's - we managed it and it's working better than ever. Even my cheap simple old gso focused is better. Happy to talk more on that and let you know what you need. Carole just type dell 9020m into eBay but make sure it has charger and windows. There are also some other nice version but 9020m has 6xusb3.

 

[Demon]

Ps this is his latest amazing effort with it and 533mc and dual narrowband l enhance and rgb.

 

[Cumbrianwolf]

1 hour ago, Demon said:

Ps this is his latest amazing effort with it and 533mc and dual narrowband l enhance and rgb.

 

Wow, that is some shot, I was looking at pairing mine up with the exact same sensor type and size in whatever camera manufacturer I chose, as a lot of use the same chip. I was thinking a mono camera and filter wheels, but I may just look at one shot colour options as if I can get close to the above picture then I would be more than happy. I have only tested the scope briefly with a Canon EOS 7D which is quite heavy, but it was not enough to evaluate the focuser, I had a GSO on my last large Newtonian, and it was rock solid when set up. So by all means offer me some suggestions on a good focuser, as no doubt I will be overloading it at some point and will need the upgrade. Many thanks 

[Demon]

The 190mn is an absolute amazing beast. Your knowledge of focusers is likely better than mine, however whenever you even slightly contemplate adjusting collimation STOP! STOP! STOP! The sw mak newt is something else and took a huge amount of work to understand and get perfect. Even to get back to close after mucking about. Some secondaries are not offset in the usual way, they are very difficult to work on and get right and don't take any prisoners compared with an easy newt. There corrector plate makes it a nightmare and if you look on internet you'll find many graves of people who have tried and failed. But we managed it😏 just!!! and could help if you eventually can't prevent yourself from playing... I could put you in touch if/when you want but leave a bit as he's just had bereavement in family.

[Demon]

Ps I would certainly have some fun with 7d. There's much better guys n gals on here who can advise on imaging better than me. However I'd suggest first off get a focus motor and if not already go nina and as im just realising hocus focus. What guider have you got? I know you've helped me in passed but know you've had a break and neighbours...so can't remember where your rig is at currently...

[Cumbrianwolf]

11 minutes ago, Demon said:

Ps I would certainly have some fun with 7d. There's much better guys n gals on here who can advise on imaging better than me. However I'd suggest first off get a focus motor and if not already go nina and as im just realising hocus focus. What guider have you got? I know you've helped me in passed but know you've had a break and neighbours...so can't remember where your rig is at currently...

Horizon 50 mm Guide scope paired with the ZWO ASI120MM‑MINI CMOS Guide camera, this was practical for the budget I had at the time and the advice I had on here. I dabbled with Nina whilst I was trialling this setup and used the 7D on it, but a few glitches were present, and I felt the 7D was not quite doing what I wanted, as in I could not go over 60s of exposure for some reason. NINA however is superb, and the polar alignment add-on is great with extreme accuracy. As for a new camera I was fancying the Svbony SV605CC OSC, or I might plump up a little more for one of the same from a better known manufacturer, as the software drivers are probably more optimised. I think I need to shift my guitar kit to free up some funds before I move any further forward.

 

You mentioned collimation and I agree that is a steep learning curve with these astrographs, I have a quality laser collimator by Baader (tried the cheap ones and regretted it) and a Cheshire eyepiece as back up to make sure I am not far out. I have or at least I think I have it in full collimation, but I need more time and some star tests to be sure, they are not a telescope for the beginner that is for sure.

[Demon]

Guiding sounds great. My friend gets 0.5 arc sec or better. Lol laser and Cheshire on a 190mn...normal rules don't apply sadly as my mate found out especially if you want it to really be perfect. 7d should easily do more than 60 although I've not tried. Even lots of 60s would be great though. Everyone has different budgets, I do everything on cheap sadly - but need a decent size cooled mono.

[Cumbrianwolf]

18 minutes ago, Demon said:

Guiding sounds great. My friend gets 0.5 arc sec or better. Lol laser and Cheshire on a 190mn...normal rules don't apply sadly as my mate found out especially if you want it to really be perfect. 7d should easily do more than 60 although I've not tried. Even lots of 60s would be great though. Everyone has different budgets, I do everything on cheap sadly - but need a decent size cooled mono.

I am erring on the budget side myself and often try to meet midway with the costs vs performance mark. I think I need to read up more on collimation of the MAK-Newtonian before I consider it done. It was hard enough trying to fine tune the Newtonian with corrector lens that brought it down to around f3.2. Always something more to learn in this hobby, which keeps me interested. 

[Demon]

You just made me look and that's very tempting for me thanks, need to read up...

[Cumbrianwolf]

10 minutes ago, Demon said:

You just made me look and that's very tempting for me thanks, need to read up...

Problem is the lack of that much definable and long term information on the internet regarding it, as some are paid to give glowing reviews. It seems to be a replica of the ZWO version in a different shell.

[Demon]

I actually got a cheap ha 7nm off them direct recently and their o3 7nm is excellent (that's said I have little basis for comparison) but good impression so far, definitely more reading. Would love a 26m no chance of that and other tec cooled 533m are around double...I've seen reviews where they had banding from their website before but see if they've fixed it. Very tempting...